The  acetylene gas is discovered by the British chemist Edmund Davy in 1836. Its direct application for lighting will not intervene that later after the development of the manufactoring process of carbide in an arc furnace in 1892 by a French chemist H. Moissan. Whereas the development of the electric lighting is still weak, and almost anecdotic. The applications of acetylene develop, in particular for autonomous underground lighting. The intensive exploitation of the mining layers, mainly of coal, require ceaseless improvements of lighting. It is imperative for the minors to have reliable, lighting lamps but especially protecting dangers of the firedamp. At the dawn of the XX^th century, progress of the mining lamps running with oil and the gasoline decreases the risks but is still largely perfectible.

In this context, lighting with acetylene offers a very great hope of technical improvement. [safety lamps] did not cease being improved since 1815, protected by sieves or sleeves out of glass of crystal intended to limit the exposure of the flame due to the firedamp. One hopes to invent the perfect lamp having a strong lighting, and ensuring a perfect safety especially.  The acetylene gas mining lamp is armoured and manufactured starting from parts used for the safety lamps. Its powerful lighting makes it possible to stop a disease of the minor, the "nystagmus of the coalminer", infection of the eyes due to a weak prolonged lighting. From 1910, the manufacturers will develop many models, in particular in France (Arras) and in Germany (Wolf) but one will not manage to prevent for as much the explosions of mines. Their use will thus be limited to the not-gassy mines. In the whole world, one will use the carbide lamp then, declined in innumerable models, for the exploitation of the metalliferous layers but also for the extractions of the stone in underground career (of chalk, gypsum, limestone...) and the culture mushroom bed [Cultivated mushrooms].

These uses will be extended to all the mobile forms of lighting where the acetylene gas lamp will not know any competition. In the civil field of the specific models are adapted to the building sites, with the railroads [details], with urban lighting, the cars, the motor cycles and the bicycles. For each use, the acetylene gas lamp takes a form and an adapted capacity. The first and the second world war will also find their use with this lamp, in the various army corps but also in the hearths. This current use will perdurera until in the Fifties, where electrical installation modern and generalized, will replace the individual lighting with gas. In the mines, it is the development of the batteries and the startup of the frontal flashlights which will mark the end of the acetylene gas lamp.  

A half century later, their current use continues still, mainly thanks to the speleologists. The lamp changed considerably, but the principle remains always the same one. an acetylene gas lamp proposes a lighting always inexpensive, very sure, and especially of good quality in the underground cavities; coupled to an electric system, it is practically infallible and unlimited, as long as carbide is had. Contrary to the very concentrated ray of a flashlight, it forms a broad sphere of light and product of heat. The appearance of frontal lighting with diodes still marks a stage moreover in the technological advancement, but the acetylene gas lamp, more than one century after its appearance remains always used. Even if the quantities are less, it is still manufactured some. Carbide is always produced and in certain countries of Asia or South America, the exploitation of the basement is always lit by carbide lamps.  

It is about an industrial production using of coke (coal) heated at very high temperature (between 3000 and 3500 Celcius degrees) producing a raw material intended for the manufacture of gas for the welding, and the decarburisation of the cast iron. Under the effect of water, produced carbide of acetylene. Approximately two water tanks, make it possible to consume a carbide load (a tank filled to the 2/3). and a tank filled with lime produces. This lime is known as extinct: it was saturated with water.

The consumption of an acetylene gas lamp varies according to 2 factors: Flow of the nozzle, expressed in liter, and the water arrival in the tank. The higher the flow of a nozzle is, the more it produces an important flame, the more it consumes gas (and thus of carbide). In addition, more the tap is opened, more water runs out quickly, and more the chemical reaction is important.

It is thus important to regulate a lamp well, to obtain a regular flame adapted to the nozzle. If it leaves while whistling and produces a very long flame, the water flow is too important, it is slightly necessary to close again the punch. On the contrary, if it is small, round and wavers, it should slightly be opened the punch so that the water flow increases. A normal flame does not produce smoke and measures approximately 2 or 3 cm for a nozzle of a medium flow (14 or 21L).  

Lime, in the form of fine white powder, can still be useful once produced. In a place attended like the careers of Paris, it can be used to drain a wet place, to cleanse, it absorbs the organic matters completely: food, moulds, urine and all their odors. Lime can also be used as ingredient with the composition of certain hydraulic mortars: it absorbs water and allows them to dry. Complement of limestone, lime has the capacity to let "breathe" the rock, while draining it. Thus certain careers of Parisienne suburbs are found where walls one covered with white lime. These is also a manure which brings nitrogen to the poor grounds. The recovery of this lime can thus prove very useful to be re-used, and essential in speleogy not to pollute.  

The flame produced by the acetylene gas lamp is approximately 20 times more luminous than a candle. This variation varies depending on the flow of the nozzle (expressed in liters of gas per hour), the water supply of the lamp and the state of this nozzle.

The ideal adjustment produces a regular and luminous flame. Underfed out of water, the flame yellows and decreases, it can even "carbonize". Overfed, it consumes much carbide and uses the nozzle unnecessarily. It is thus essential to find the adjustment of the punch allowing drop by drop regular producing a "beautiful flame".  

These flames can take very different aspects, according to the drilling and the shape of the nozzle: the "butterfly flame", punt and very lighting formed by a simple nozzle having a side slit or nozzle bored twice (double nozzle) (1), the round flame, economic and more adapted to a lamp having reflectors formed by a simple nozzle with only one hole (2) and the double flame formed by a nozzle bored of two holes directed according to a particular angle (occasionally which can tend towards a "butterfly flame" (3). Below: various types of flames produced by the acetylene gas lamp

To know the state of a lamp, it is enough to entirely dismount it in order to check that the parts are not seized up or are not damaged. A first visual examination makes it possible to detect the possible traces of rust and the missing parts. The quality of a lamp depends on its general state. A fine rust film does not pose a problem if oxidation did not cause boring. It is preferable to also check that the plate located under the water tank (inside the lamp) is clean, this one having to be perfectly tight. A second examination makes it possible to check that the tap of the punch is present, and if possible, that it is unscrewed. Lastly, it is always preferable to have a lamp having a nozzle, this part being particularly rare and difficult to replace. To check its state with the naked eye, it is enough to look at if it is split, neither on with dimensions ones (rings metal), nor on the top (ceramic). A nozzle not comprising any soot trace is often revealing of a black and clogged new nozzle, it is contrary, sign of a faulty operation. The presence of the stopper (difficult to replace), from protects nozzle or of a plate estampill with the mark of the lamp are preferable but not essential to operation.   

To dismount a lamp, it is enough to unscrew the principal screw located on the upper part (more rarely the opening is done by unscrewing the two tanks directly connected enters they: [see: other systems of closing]). If these screw pitches do not open with facility, it is preferable not to force and use releasing. To renew the operation and to let act several hours so necessary.

In cause of despair one can introduce a metal bar into the loop of the screw while turning in the opposite direction of the needles of a watch with force. A corroded screw can break it is thus advised to use the soft way. A vice can also appear useful for the best taken, in particular for the lamps with direct screwing (where the tank and the tank are screwed one in another without clamp). Not to be likely to damage the lamp, one can coat it with a thick rubber belting which will ensure the catch in a vice, without leaving of mark in metal.

The tanks should not be bored. To check the good performance of the water tank, it is enough to fill it. Water should run only by actuating the punch, in drop by drop, and stop completely when the tap is turned off. The joint must be clean and with good dimensions. The nozzle must be well screwed and does not have to be cracked or broken. The clamp must be must be well maintained on its axis. In a broken down place, if possible outside: One reassembles the lamp then by putting a little carbide at it to carry out a test (a stone is enough). Once closed again well, one opens the tap and one lights.

If the lamp with escapes, small flames will leave, either by the joint, or by the base of the nozzle. The pressure in the lamp is low, there's no risk of "explosion". So flames appear it is necessary to blow above highly to extinguish the lamp after having marked the site of the escapes. If the flame does not leave by the nozzle: it is stopped. If the flame leaves by the base the nozzle: it is enough to roll up band Teflon (used in plumbing) around the screw pitch. A very black smoke leaves with the flame if the nozzle is split or too worn: in this case to change the nozzle or to try a repair if it is cracked [repair].

A last examination consists in reassembling the lamp after having carried out repairs and the changes of defective pieces (joined, nozzle).  If, as of the first test no problem arose, one carries out the final test by lighting the lamp: a regular, white flame and lives must leave there. If it is the case, one also approaches a flame of the opening of the tank (to envisage a large match with chimney or a rather long stem). This test makes it possible to see whether, with use, of gas will not accumulate in the water tank. A lamp can indeed function very well with these escapes, without one realizing some. This test can cause a kind of a small "flamme" (without danger). If the pipe connecting the tank to the nozzle (through the water tank) is bored or porous, a sharp flame will leave by the hole the tank (where the stopper is), and will die out immediately followed by a small black smoke. In this case, the lamp is not usable in full safety, and it will be necessary to carry out the change of the plate of separation of the tanks [see repair] or the hose connection [see repair]. If nothing occurs, the lamp is in perfect operating condition.  

To use an acetylene gas lamp, it is necessary to know how to load and empty a lamp safety (to put the carbide and  to remove lime powder out of the carbide chamber) . This operation consists to withdraw the lime of the tank and to replace it by carbide. To carry it out without risk, it is essential to extinguish the lamp and to be held distant from any flame (1). In the darkness, it is of course necessary to envisage an auxiliary flashlight, ideally, a head light to have the freehands or, all at least to avoid having a flame in the vicinity immediate.

To open an acetylene gas lamp whose flame is not extinct can cause a short explosion due to the release of the flammable gases which it contains. The first operation thus consists in starting electric lighting and to blow the flame of the carbide lamp. It is preferable to be provided as a preliminary with carbide of replacement to load the lamp, of a small plastic bag, of one nozzle and possibly of the small basic equipment emerges to clean the lamp. [Acetokit]

One unscrews the clamp (2). Once the opened lamp, lime is emptied. The plastic bag makes it possible to collect it and avoid leaving it on the place where one carries out the operation (3). With this occasion one can note the consistency of this lime: wet and pasty, she testifies to a too great water arrival in the lamp which it will be necessary to regulate using the punch to reduce this flow. The pieces of carbide remaining can be re-used for following liming, once removed from the powder lime which surrounds them.

The tank must be filled between half and the 2/3 of its capacity to leave enough space with gas compress itself suitably (4). Too much carbide limits the autonomy of the lamp which once filled cannot form gas any more. An insufficiency of carbide, leaves a volume of too important gas so that this one is compressed enough to provide a sharp flame. In the event of shortage, it is nevertheless possible to cure this problem by adding simple stones which will decrease volume inside the tank, while allowing gas provided to better compress itself.

For carrying out the reassembly of the lamp, it is necessary to clean the joint and the cup part (Flare fitting) to ensure a perfect sealing of the two tanks (5-6-7). This cleaning can be carried out summarily with the fingers, of the "Scotch-brite sponge" or the iron foam. After the reassembly, while the lamp is put in pressure, one can check his sealing while passing a flame of lighter on the edge of the joint and around the nozzle. In the event of escape, the gas will leave while causing a very small non luminous flame which will have to be immediately puffed up. It will then be necessary to close again the punch and to check if the escape is due to a damaged joint, a clogging, or a deformation of the cup (Flare fitting). Generally a disassembling followed by a reassembly is enough. A lamp which flees should not be used before being repaired or cleaned.  

The lighting of the lamp exempts directions for use. It is enough to approach a flame and the alchemy of acetylene makes the remainder. This phase of lighting, is also the occasion to check its good performance. The lamp generally has just been open and handled, it can be useful to take one moment to observe it the more so as the appearance of this flame always preserves a small "magic" aspect.

It is thus checked that the lamp is well closed again and screwed. Initially nothing occurs, even if a flame is approached since the pressure is not yet sufficient so that the gas left by the nozzle. One or two minutes is enough so that the reaction is done completely. One can benefit from this moment to pass a flame around the joint for checking the sealing well: no flame must appear. In the contrary case, the lamp was badly closed again, or the joint is clogged.

The initial reaction will involve an exit of gas by the nozzle, but not of flame. It is the air contained in the tank which is driven out by the reaction of water and carbide. A few seconds later a small very concentrated non luminous flame leaves the nozzle. The proportion of air and acetylene balances, this flame light blue very oxygenated leaves with much pressure. The flame then will bleach and grow gradually as the proportion of acetylene increases. In same time it happens that this phenomenon creates a small aspiration in the water tank, and causes a characteristic glou-glou. In this case it slightly should be regulated the punch so that the flow of water would be less important, that it provides less gas, and that this aspiration even ceases of it.    

Most of the time, an old lamp is oxidized, stained or covered with various products. According to the cases it is possible to use an abrasive method: scraping, files, fabric Emery etc. or a scouring: baths of certain parts in white vinegar or products antiliming (viakal-antikal, produced domestic), and even of solvents to withdraw bituminous paintings or traces (acetone).  Attention, it is disadvised letting soak a whole lamp in the vinegar. This scouring, will continue thereafter and involve an important corrosion of the tank and tank, in particular on lamps already strongly oxidized. All these products are thus to use carefully and parsimony.

Generally sandpapering makes it possible to find the glare of any lamp by using sandpaper for metals  of various grains to go until finest.  To trim, one can use a sander (preferably fixed on a vice) or small adaptable brushes on drilling machines without wire. It will simply be enough to take care not to make marks during the use of these tools. One can also make shine these lamps with glossing "creams". This kind of products will be used more particularly for the lamps which are useful little or which are in exposure.

If they thereafter are used, this completion will be useless, and will be able to even accentuate its clogging. One will be able to finally observe that the brass lamps oxidize naturally, and patinate more quickly than the iron lamps, and than they are stained very quickly with the least contact with water.  

The maintenance of a lamp ensures its good performance, it also reduces the risks or the "problems" of use to the strict minimum. A little material of cleaning is thus essential: of the iron foam, emerges nozzles (or bits a metal brush), grease silicone, Teflon joint (white ribbon used in plumbing), a small grip, and abrasive paper for metals.

These old lamps are robust and require little care, one should not therefore forgetting to maintain them from time to time.   To maintain the sealing: [joined] and it [cup-(Flare fitting)] must be always smooth. In fact the parts are clogged most quickly. The nozzle requires a particular maintenance (see below). Incidentally, the outside of the lamp is cleaned with a dry rag or scotch-brite (green sponge for crockery) used dry, to withdraw possible cloggings (mud, rust, lime). One can benefit from it to check that inside, the lower part of the water tank remains perfectly tight and runs only by actuating the punch.  

To provide a beautiful flame, the nozzle must always be clean (working well and not that it shines). One can as retain as the less a nozzle is cleaned, the less one uses it. These two principles are essential to know for any person wishing to light with a carbide lamp. It is thus the aspect of [flame] which will indicate when it should be maintained, and more particularly its bad combustion: a thick smoke then will escape from it. It will be said whereas it [carbonizes]. Generally, either the nozzle is damaged, or it is clogged. 

One can clean it outside, by using a little very fine steel foam or the scotch-brite to withdraw the carbon deposits, and with one nozzle of the good size emerges. Certain wire brushes or of the bits of fine cables can make the deal, by using their sons to clean the interior of the nozzle and by taking care that they are fine and especially enough resistant not to break inside.  One should not hesitate to entirely dismount them to carry out a complete cleaning from time to time. With this occasion it is possible to find inside the nozzle a small grid intended to filter the impurities of the combustion (which it is in general preferable to withdraw). For very clogged nozzles one can also use of the "Steadent tablets" (cleaning for dentures) acting on enamel. Generally, it will be retained that as long as all functions well, it is preferable not to clean them.  

Solidarity between the two tanks of the lamp must be perfect and the joint in excellent state. Lime drains little by little rubber, and the joint ends up hardening, to be cracked then by breaking. A regular cleaning prolongs its lifespan very clearly. Once clean, the joint can be coated of a little grease silicone of which the surplus will be withdrawn after the discussion with a small rag so that it is "dry", black and shining at the end of the operation (and thus not oily). The replacement of this part can pose problem since there exists nothing on the market of this diameter. It is "possible" to adapt a piece of tire tube or a joint of pot of jam, but the use of these too fine materials or drawn bars is disadvised. It is thus limited to a provisional use   

This punt part which encloses the top and the bottom of the joint must be plane and smooth. A sandpapering with the file or abrasive paper makes it possible to obtain two smooth and regular surfaces which will avoid damaging the joint and will allow a better sealing, without having for that to tighten the clamp more and more. If the cup is damaged following a shock, it is possible to hammer it gently or to rectify it with the grip before sandpapering it to give it in form. The smoother this part will be, the more the joint will be preserved and the use of the lamp facilitated.  

It can happen that the "screw pitch" of the punch is clogged with limestone deposits, sands, or residues being inside the water tank. Water does not run out any more, or very badly and requires to make turn of taps more and more. With a little steel foam, the screw pitch can be cleaned until one can clearly see each scratch of the screw. A descaling in the "Viakal" or the white vinegar makes it possible to obtain results. If this clogging is too important, it can require Re-to tap the punch. Lastly, it is it should be noted that one never should try to lubricate or lubricate the screw pitch of the punch and that one does not clean a punch which functions well with the risk to put out of order it.

Contrary, a punch can sometimes be difficult to regulate it changes position if the lamp is moving, or its race is too important. This arrives when the punch is clogged and that a great number of revolutions are necessary so that water runs out. The punch thus should be cleaned, and if the problem persists, to adapt a spring around the stem which will maintain it with the good position. A simple wire rigid rolled up around in spiral, will be enough largely in general, but one will be able very easily to also recover a spring on any apparatus out of use to adapt it for this purpose.  

The water tank is the receptacle of all the impurities. To check if it is clean, and thus if the water which will run out will be clear, it is enough to fill it and to empty it by the stopper. The color which water will take will make it possible to know its state (Brownish if the interior of the tank is oxidized). It is possible to clean it with warm water mixed with white vinegar which will dissolve limestone. The use of scaling substance for coffee machine or "Steradent tablets" is also possible in this case. If this tank is dirty or if water used is unsuitable, these impurities will be consumed by the flame and will release a black smoke. With preventive measure one can also add some vinegar drops in the tank during his use but this process releases a not very pleasant odor.  

On suspicion, it is important not to preserve wet lime residues in the tank and to clean it well after each use. This lime ends up agglomerating and to form a layer which decreases capacity, moisture contributes to oxidize metal. A cleaning (even summary) must thus be carried out after each use. If the lamp is used only occasionally, one can leave a small piece of carbide to absorb moisture inside. The only requirement in this case being to preserve a dry tank of not supporting oxidation.  

It is the only "optional" part of the acetylene gas lamp. It is about a bored disc resembling a saucer, recovering carbide to prevent that once transformed into lime, that Ci goes up in the water tank. It also makes it possible to diffuse the water run-off on carbide. The cup is used in theory in the concave direction (posed in "basin" on carbide). The process is clever but it can be advantageously replaced by a piece of Scotch tape brite (for the crockery) cut out to the diameter of the tank and posed on carbide. Water is diffused much better and lime is not likely to stop the hose connection of the water tank. One will be able to also use, a "sock" containing carbide, diffusing moisture in all the tank, and facilitating deliming.  

The stopper is only used not to reverse the contents of water as soon as the lamp is inclined. It is pierced with a hole allowing the pressure air to facilitate the water run-off. This air intake is important for a good combustion. One can also sometimes leave the open stopper to increase the flow. A system of chain makes it possible to let it hang without losing it. If the replacement with identical of a brass stopper is extremely difficult, it is however possible to avoid losing it by supervising the state of this chain or by replacing it. The brass chain is bought with the meter in certain stores of do-it-yourself (attention it often just "brassplated" and in this case it will oxidize), a simple brasswire or of rather rigid copper and a grip makes it possible to repair this system of closing. Any other stopper (cork or rubber) can be appropriate, even if it is less aesthetic, since it has an opening to ensure the air pressure on the water of the tank.  

It should not exceed the 2/3 of the volume of the tank. In contact with water, lime occupies more and more of space in the tank until saturation. For its good performance, the gas must be able to occupy approximately 1/3 of remaining volume. The pressure is done then correctly until all the volume of the tank is filled out by lime.  The flame drops gradually since the chemical reaction is not done any more: It is necessary then [to empty the lamp]. A lamp too much charged also can [cough].  

Lime functions "like rice": a volume of carbide and two volumes of water produce approximately two volume of lime and of course, of gas. an acetylene gas lamp thus follows this proportion: one twice fills with continuation the water tank for an identical volume of carbide. It is thus important to proportion well the quantity of carbide which one puts in the tank but also the volume of water in the tank. So that the pressure of the air allows a good water run-off: never not to fill water to the brim; it is necessary to leave a little vacuum. The pressure of the air will allow a good water run-off.

Water quality also influences the working of the lamp. A clear water containing little tartar (or muds if one takes it in natural environment) will avoid the clogging of the lamp. Ideally one "could" thus consider that demineralized water constitutes the best means of preserving a carbide lamp in perfect operating condition.   

The nozzles of carbide lamps are measured by a unit indicating the gas output per hour expressed in liter. The most current formats of nozzles are made up of a brass ring (sometimes out of iron) provided with a ceramics head with a flow with 14 or 21L. The higher this flow is, the broader boring of the nozzle is, and the more important volume of gas outgoing acetylene is ⁽¹⁾. The flame will be then bulkier, and thus lighting. This flow is heard for a "normal" use, i.e. that it can vary according to the water which runs out in the tank. If the water flow is increased, one increases at the same time the production of gas, and thus the flow of the nozzle. A more important flame then will be obtained, but will use more water and more carbide. The "normal" flame is thus obtained when it neither is overfed (too much water entering the tank containing carbide), nor under fed (not enough water).  It is enough for that to check that it is sharp, white and regular (of a size from 2 to 3 cm), often in the shape of range.

One also finds "double nozzles" or "combined nozzles", producing two flames. Their flow will be expressed same manner. The only difference residing in the fact that 2 borings were made in ceramics to obtain a more luminous and broader flame, or that two nozzles meet at their base to form one. Their consumption will be identical, but the flame will be simply lighting and more esthetics.

There exist nozzles of any kind of flows which will adapt for various types of lamps. For a portable lamp having a tank of 1/2litre (the standard model) a nozzle of 21 will ensure a large flame, a nozzle of 14 will be more economic. For a lamp of lower size cap's lamp, bike lamp...), a little nozzle of 10 liters , or a nozzle of 14 will be used. For a very large lamp (tank of 1litre), the pressure will be sufficient to feed a nozzle of 28 Liters. ⁽²⁾ (see below)

On the contrary, if you're using a very small nozzle for a large lamp, it will be overfed. The gas pressure will be too important for the low flow of the nozzle, and one will obtain a very long flame which will not light inevitably much more and which will damage the nozzle. Contrary, if you're using a nozzle of 28 on a small lamp (of type Arras T1 of a capacity of 1/4 of liter), the lamp will not be able to provide pressure enough, except if one inordinately feeds it out of water. Either the flame will be small and carbonaceous (if the normal water flow is used), or the carbide consumption will be excessive compared to the capacity of the lamp (by opening of advantage the punch to let run more water), and it will have to be very often reloaded.

The good choice of the nozzle is thus done according to the size of the lamp and its autonomy. A clean nozzle on a well regulated lamp will make it possible the lamp to function during 6 to 8 hours, even more, with only one load from carbide and two filling of the water tank, without touching with the punch.   

When a black smoke and fatty is released from the nozzle without this one not being damaged or is cracked: it worn or is clogged ⁽¹⁾. If a cleaning is not enough and that the problem persists, its change becomes obligatory. This very toxic smoke infiltrates deeply in the lungs. It is a fatty soot which it is inevitable to breathe (and to make breathe) when it occurs. Note that in a few hours only, the inhalation of this smoke is such, that even several days afterwards, one can find of them black traces in the nose or the mouth.

The lifespan of a nozzle is not unlimited, it varies from 1 to 10 years, even more, according to the use that one makes some. The nozzle wears naturally by producing a flame, but it is possible to increase this lifespan considerably. The cleaning of the nozzle must be made rather regularly while trying not to damage it (to avoid the penknife as recommended in old the catalogues of lamps; -). It is highly disadvised preserving its lamp "nearly closed": turned off tap, when water does not supply any more the tank, the flame decreases gently and forms one small drops blue ⁽¹⁾ which can last several hours. This small flame very close to ceramics unnecessarily uses the nozzle and it is preferable to extinguish it. Same manner an overfed lamp (too open tap) produced a too sharp flame. Either the flow of the nozzle is too small for the size of the lamp (a nozzle of 7 Liters on a large lamp quickly will wear), or the punch is badly regulated (it diffuses too much water in the carbide tank): it is thus advisable to regulate a lamp well to avoid a fast wear of the nozzles.       ⁽¹⁾ (See: various types of flames)

The carbide releases in contact with water a very characteristic odor, and becomes completely odourless when it is ignited. The flame indeed consumes all the impurities of gas. However, during deliming, lime can release a very bad smell, and take a yellow color. This is due to a carbide of bad quality which has inter alia impurities a great quantity of sulphur. The impurer the carbide is, the more it releases from sulphur odor, and the less luminous the flame of the lamp is, it can also carbonize. The carbide of ideal quality is gray, of a rather important gauge and leaves after the drainage duct a lime gray, clear, very fine and not very odorous. Contrary, a carbide of lower quality leaves yellowish deposits in the tank and releases from bad smells.  

By precaution, it is always preferable to envisage a small equipment of discussion with its "aceto" if one uses it in outside or underground medium. Here thus a small list of the material to be envisaged: one or more nozzle of replacement (useful), of the probes, a little ribbon Teflon, of the foam of steel, a little piece of  "sandpaper metal" and one box to contain all of this. It can also be very useful to have a knife tool of the type "Lethermann" with a small grip to carry out with the need for unforeseen repairs.  

The carbide is generally delivered was (50kg); it can be resold with the detail. This product is very sensible to moisture, it is thus essential hermetically to store it in a dry place. The barrel, constitutes a good protection, the moisture contained in the air is enough to produce an minor amount of gas.  With each time it is open, an minor amount of carbide will thus be lost by this new intrusion of humidity. The more the barrel will be emptied, the more important the proportion of air which it contains will be, and thus the loss will be each time proportional. One will be able to note carbide unnecessarily lost, with the residual lime which will be at the bottom of the barrel when this one is empty. The carbide left with the free air dissolved of course in a few days only.

It is thus highly advised to open a barrel the least most often possible, by storing it in small reserves (approximately 1kg). With each opening, it will be also advised to fill the space of vacuum by foam, plastic with bubbles etc.  which will decrease the quantity of air contained in a barrel.

Storage with the detail could be done in limp hermetic only held for this purpose (tupperware) or more simply of limp for instant coffee closed again well and filled to the maximum (always to limit the quantity of air). Carbide pots exists for this special use and can be found in the specialized stores or on Internet sites [Links].  

In France, the old lamps most widespread were used by the army and in the civil society during the occupation then the period according to war. These lamps of the "military" type are various origins, several manufacturers having been solicited to produce these carbide lamps in great series. Certain marks thus conceived whole ranges comprising of very many models, by proposing the Twenties of the mining lamps, but also of the lanterns and much of alternatives more adapted for the building sites or the factories. Lastly, some benefitted from the important demand for lamp of the beginning of the twentieth century to make copies of the famous manufacturers, which does not facilitate their identification.  They are of aspect often similar more or less: form screw, site and the shape of the door nozzle distinguishes them.  One will find in the catalogues of reference the principal manufacturers or distributors of these models in appendix: -Butin/lamps-, -Ideal- (Beaudoin), -LaFrancaise- (Ferron), -manufrance- etc.

The lamps manufactured by the manufacture of Arras belong to the standard models, although a little less frequent. These carbide lamps acquired with the wire of time a certain notoriety because of their robustness and their reliability. "Arras" have a particularly recognizable round form and are generally marked with a small brass plate. "Arras" and the "militaries lamps" constitute the majority of the carbide lamps; these specimens are practically all of a standard size and a volume from approximately 1 liter, also distributed on 0.5l of tank, and 0.5l of tank. Their price will be rather variable according to the state and the interest that one carries there: from 3 to 30 euros. More rarely, one will find acetylene gas lamp of lower size (of a volume of 1/2 liter), enough appraisals for their reduced weight, or of higher size (2 liters) of great capacity, but rather cumbersome, that one can buy for a virtually identical price, when they are found.  

The remainder of the market is distributed in the less current lamps, of varied forms. Lamps - Draper, easily recognizable with their form and the logo in the star shape of each with dimensions of the tank (see opposite) *

Many models of lamps the SNCF used by, the more reduced lamp bicycle railroads of size generally having reflectors glazed, with each with dimensions incrustation of glass coloured in red and green, lamps of often recognizable champignonnists to their horizontal handle out of wooden etc. Of the new lamps, generally out of brass, are still sold by some factories throughout the world. All these lamps are of a cost slightly higher included/understood in a fork from 15 to 75 Euros for models in perfect operating condition and of conservation.

One finds finally [mining lamps] (or of collection), sometimes foreign, German, English, American or Belgian, the safety lamps, lamps of building site, vehicles (trains, motorbikes). Their price is thus largely higher, a true existing market on these parts, generally proposed by collectors or professionals having proceeded to their restoration. This type of carbide lamp will be able to reach to several hundred Euros, if it is rare and in very clean.  [Links]. Opposite, an elegant Carmaux lamp produced by the manufacture of Arras in 2 models, any brass and galvanized with ring brass.

No estimate of these lamps can be given, taking into account the variety of these objects of collection and their origins.  One can sometimes note in certain merchants or in the auctions a clear tendency to higher bid and with overvaluation of certain parts without common measurement with their actual value. The Links indicated on this site will direct you towards suppliers practitioner of the completely accessible tariffs.  

The production of these lamps is varied enough throughout the world. The carbide lamps which one will be able to find in Europe and particularly in Germany, in Italy, in Spain, in England or Belgium are rather close to those which one finds in France. It will be noticed that the majority of these countries have important fields at the origin of the important companies of manufacture of lamps which will diversify and manufacture models with acetylene adapted to the everyday life.

In the United States, the production of lamps of small size was extremely important. These models used for the bicycles or clinging on the caps (Lucas - Justrite) are thus much more frequent than in Europe. These lamps manufactured in very great number and declined in hundreds of models constitute thus the most important family of acetylene gas lamp  

On Internet the means are multiple: the old lamps resell occasion on the specialized sites (Ebay, Aucland) and by the means of classifieds. One will regularly find there lamps from 25 or 30 Euros. There exist also specialized sites (minerslamp), and sites of collectors which propose a heading of sale of occasion detailed in the heading [Links].   On the ground, purses of exchange are held sometimes, and an annual exposure in Belgium which takes place in May in particular makes it possible to acquire of [mining lamps] or collection [Site]. In Paris, one will be able to regularly find lamps with "the military trench" (surplus of the army being with the chips of Clignancourt) proposing lamps in operating condition with approximately 25 Euros (delivered with 1 or 2 nozzles, sometimes cracked but reparable). Occasionally carbide lamps are while clouding at the flea markets of Montreuil and Clignancourt around 15 or 20 Euros.

While documenting itself on "Aladdin stores" or on the site [vide-grenier] one will be able to find the list of the secondhand trades being held May at October. For the price of the lamp, it will be necessary to add time devoted to cloud and the expenses caused by this research, but this means generally makes it possible to find the models of lamps current if one tries hard to seek. Lastly, it is possible to buy new lamps on [the website of JK dey and Sons]. This manufacturer proposes portable lamps, generators and mining lamps of good quality as well as nozzles of all flows. The tariffs are relatively low (25 to 50 Euros), but it is necessary to envisage the payment of the taxes of customs, as well as transport. For the purchase of these Indian lamps, it is thus advised to proceed by grouped purchase.   

The old carbide lamps which one can find in the trade are sometimes incomplete and out of state to generally function. It is possible to constitute a stock of small spare parts on lamps very worn or incomplete, qu will be used to give in a state of other lamps: stoppers, punches, hooks and protects nozzles. Some other parts subjected to wear are findable with more difficulty: joints and nozzles. You will find [here] all the practical advices to manufacture or restore these parts.   

To allow the precise identification of the various models of lamps, you will find through documentations of this site a great number of descriptions and models.  The catalogues of the manufacturers will make it possible to identify the majority of the current lamps. The American models (cap' S lamp) are the subject of one [e-group] and an exhaustive work detailing all the models [bibliography]. If it is about a courrant model of lamp start while consulting these [diagram of reference comparative].

For the rarest lamps, there remain dedicated works with the acetylene gas lamps [bibliography] them [specialized sites] on which he is often possible to ask the various collectors an assistance to this subject.   

The old nozzles consist of an enamelled end assembled on a ring brass, or aluminium (1). Generally their flow is indicated (7-14-21-28 liters) on the basis of nozzle.

Double the nozzles in Y (combined) are subdivided in 2 branches diffusing of the flames of a low flow uniting to form only one of them. Certain models are designed to function out of night light.

The Indian nozzles have the characteristic to be produced in small series. They produce variable flames out of tube, double flames and sometimes out of butterfly (rare). They do not adapt on the European lamps  (2).

The nozzle Petzl: it is about a head enamelled and machined by the manufacturer of material of speleology petzl. These nozzles offer variable flames according to their machining. They do not adapt on the old lamps (2).

New material available at

JK Dey & sons

Characterized by its round, often struck shape "of a mark Arras". The model more the current is closed by a strap bolt in the form of loop and the end of the punch finishes in the shape of flower.

Slightly finer and higher than Arras, its upper part is bent. There are many alternatives but most current a screw in form of T has, and the end of the punch in the olive shape.

Lamps of small sizes (approximately 10cm) among which one can distinguish the lamps from bicycle (Frenchwoman or American) as well as the model 115C manufactured by JK. One adapts nozzles of weak flows to it: 7 liters.

Models JK 104 and 203 are easily recognizable, small and squat they exist out of brass or galvanized metal ringed by an elegant ring brass. Their characteristic is to be sold new.

Very solid. Arras does not have practically any weak point. It will be noted however that depending on their state of conservation, some will tend to oxidize on the level of the tanks.

Very solid and extremely resistant. Just like Arras they will be able to tend to oxidize since the layer of tin which protects it weakens with time.

Sometimes fragile in particular on the level of the systems with screw and the nozzle

Fragile in particular on the level of the system of screwed closing. Very fragile cups also, and is likely to lose the screws fixing the handle of the lamp.

Autonomy 8 to 10 h, sometimes more. Its perfect volumes refer of Arras. The lamp ideally consumes 2 volumes of water for 1 carbide load.

Autonomy 8 with 10 hours

endurance 2 to 5 hours

(According to the use and the nozzle)

Endurance 6 to 8 hours

Reliability: highly reliable.

Reliability: the "military" models manufactured in great series are reliable, very slightly lower than "Arras" on the level of the design.

Reliable over one rather short duration (the first hour) then more unstable taking into account very small capacity

Models reliable requiring some adaptations to function correctly: disassembling of protects punch (clever but ineffective), and systematic use of a "sock" around the carbide load.

Estimate: of 5 Euros (for a model to be restored) to 30 Euros for a clean and working model, sometimes more

Estimate: of 5 Euros (for a model to be restored) to 25 Euros for a clean and working model

Estimate: of 5 Euros (for a model to be restored) to 30 Euros for a clean and working model, sometimes more.

Very low costs the purchase (25 E), the price increase considerably with the taxes and transport (50 to 60 E with the wholesale price). They can be negotiated between 75 and 100 Euros

Where to buy calcium carbide? In France, the last factory of Bellegarde closed its doors in 2003 and does not produce any more carbide of excellent quality which made its reputation. This one from now on is imported in France, and mainly of Romania; richer he suffers from it is thus less pure. To obtain the tariff low it is necessary to order some with the tariff of large at [expé], by barrels of 50kg at the price of 140 Euros approximately (delivery included) that is to say 2.8 E the kilo (one kilo allowing 2 to 3 carbide loads which can supply a lamp during approximately 20 hours).  (see also [storage] and [quality] of carbide)

For an order in detail, It is also possible to acquire of it  with speleology clubs and caving associations : try  [IUS] (International Union of Speleology to get information about your country) .   

The old nozzles in operating condition are rare, and certain combined nozzles (in Y) practically untraceable. Generally the nozzles of origin are on the sold lamps of occasion in secondhand trade. A clean nozzle sold with a lamp thus justifies often its price with him only. In a certain manner, one will be able to say taking into account his scarcity, that the value of a nozzle can exceed that of a current lamp. It is nevertheless possible to order some on certain sites according to their unlimited arrival [Links] or more surely and in quantity at accessible prices on site JK (to envisage on the other hand relatively important transport costs).  To note: the Indian nozzles require adapters to function on the screw pitches Europeans. For manufacture help see [here]. The last solution consists in adapting Petzl nozzles, available in the shops of material speleology.   

To restore or repair a lamp, a minimum of tools is essential. This list is not well on step exhaustive, but makes it possible to carry out most of the operations described then. To be equipped with less expenses, the chips and secondhand trades, make it possible to find, while clouding a little, all which one can need:

• - a hammer

• - some grips

• - a set of small wrenches

• - a rather large vice

• - a simple blow lamp (functioning on a gas cartridge)

• - welding with tin and scouring paste

• - a set of taps and dies traditional

• - a riveting pliers and rivets

• - grease silicone

• - a bomb of releasing (rust-proof + lubricant)

• - a Teflon ribbon

• - of the steel foam (also called iron wool)

• - abrasive paper for metals (or Emery fabric)

• - a set of files for metals (punts and rounds)

• - small disqueuse (also called right angle driver)

• - a slide caliper

• - a hacksaw with hand

• - wire brushes

Metal, in plate, and tubes, in stems, iron or brass preferably (to avoid copper which can cause reactions with acetylene), recovered on old objects, old plumbings  etc   

Initially, it is a question of observing the lamp and of seeing which is its state. Its appearance is not inevitably indicating. A rusted lamp can function very well if all its parts are healthy and that it is not perforated. One will thus look at initially the state of the nozzle and the joint, if the punch and the screwed plug are unscrewed, and if the lamp can open, that the tanks are not bored. To make this examination, one entirely dismounts the lamp (while using with the need for releasing) and one looks with attention, with all parts.

It is much more interesting for a collector to acquire of a complete lamp having all its original parts. Nevertheless the purchase of an incomplete lamp could be used to replace certain parts, or, in certain cases, to function if all the parts essential to its working are present. Note that the cup covering carbide, is not essential and that to a lesser extent, the absence of protects nozzle, of stopper, even of reflectors do not prevent the working of a lamp.  

6 batches of parts are obtained: the clamp and the screwed plug: this one of should not be twisted and well in the axis, the screw must be screwed and be unscrewed easily without arriving at the end of threading to block itself.

The water tank and the punch: by filling it of water, there should not be escapes, the punch must allow drop by drop and the closing of the water arrival in closed position. The nozzle and protects it nozzle must be screwed easily, the nozzle should not be split or broken.

The carbide tank must be clean and not bored. One finds there sometimes a small cup (carbide covers). On the tank and the tank, one checks that the cup is not damaged or oxidized. The joint of origin is of black color, it makes approximately 5mm thickness when it is new. If it too much is crushed, cracked, broken or replaced by a joint of pot of jam, it is not usable any more. The metal stopper (often out of brass) is bored in the center and a small chain must be firmly hung there.   

One of the problems generally met is the oxidation of the various screw pitches of the lamp. Those in very bad condition, seized up deformed, used or are often damaged. It can be necessary, to remake threadings to give these parts in state. This operation is not very difficult ⁽¹⁾, it is enough to have the good tools and to know the exact dimensions of the parts.  Dies and taps, are referred in the following way: M8 -1.25 indicates a diameter of 8mm, and a step of 1.25 ⁽²⁾. Here thus the table of the principal steps met on the Arras lamps. The majority of the other european lamps use the same standards, but occasionally some use specific steps.   

• - Latch-tightening Screw: M8-1.25 - Interior clamp: M8-1.25

• - Punch (variable but generally): 4M-0.6

• - Nozzle Protects: M11.1.5 ⁽³⁾:  dimensions: length. 26mm, diam. int. 9.5mm, diam ext.: 13mm

• - Nozzle: conical threading M8-10 - >M6-10

• - Door nozzle (interior from the door nozzle protects): M8-10

For the coasts of the most widespread nozzles to also see [Test of the nozzles]

If the working of the lamps is always virtually identical, there are several sizes which one estimates according to the capacity of the tanks. Most current 1/2 liters (type 3 are the 2 times: 500 ml of water - 500 ml of carbide), one also find of them two models containing 2x1/4L (standard 1:  small Arras), and 2x1L (standard 5: the Arras gross). The other related lamps (military lamp "-LaFrançaise-", ?the acetylene gas lamp JL?? etc) have about same the characteristics.  

Lamp of the type I: charge 250g - Height 15 cm - Tare weight 1100g - Diameter of the joint 100mm - Intensity (for a nozzle of 14L): 18 candles (lux) - Duration of lighting 6 with 8:00.

Lamp of the type 3: charge 450g - Height 17 cm - Tare weight 1300g - Diameter of the joint 115mm - Intensity (for a nozzle of 14L): 18 candles (lux) - Duration of lighting 10 with 12:00.

Lamp of the type 5: charge 900g - Height 22 cm - Tare weight 1700g - Diameter of the joint 100mm - Intensity (for a nozzle of 14L): 18 candles (lux) - Duration of lighting 14 with 16:00.

It can be maintained and softens with grease silicone. Sometimes an old joint can be dry but clean. Lubricated, it takes again its elasticity after a few days. The manufacture of a joint can be carried out starting from rubber in plate. The raw material is expensive, it can be found in particular in the shoe-makers for the manufacture of soles. It is also possible to manufacture a leather joint (by recovering the raw material on a luggage, a clothing, a worn satchel?). The principle remains the same one, but the more fragile joint will have to be frequently lubricated to avoid its drying.

Starting from a plate, one can cut out the joint with the dimensions wanted with the chisel, cutter, or better with a blade compass. Here dimensions of the 3 most current formats: Type I: ext. 100mm, int. 85mm, Type 3: ext. 115, int. 100 and Type 5: ext. 135, int. 115. The use of joints of preserves or old joints obviously out of state, is not advised. While proceeding with precision, it is sometimes possible to leave a set of 3 or 4 joints, larger with smallest on the same plate.  

Most complicated to manufacture oneself one protects nozzle, is to have a tap of the good M11-1.5 format). This format in the past standardized for old gas pipings is not any more but in secondhand trade. It is enough to use a brass tube to dimensions [see dimensions], and to tap. A light chamfer can be made on the upper part with the disqueuse one or a sander. Nozzle protects from Arras origin is also striated with diagonal lines, not easily reproducible reason without tools industrialist of precision.  

They are D " one the parts simplest to replace. The hooks are seldom missing, and are practically indestructibles, but their manufacture can prove to be useful if? Starting from a metal stem (iron, brass?), one gives a first curve to the hook. This operation is carried out after having heated with the red surface to be worked with the blow lamp. One uses the vice, the hammer and a grip to give the desired form: round, for a traditional, or more elaborate hook with a pointed hook as that which one can observe on the manufacturing drawing above. Once twisted in a direction and the other until its final form, the end of the hook is again heated with the red and is hammered (anvil or punt part of the vice) to flatten it at its end. A blow of disqueuse gives him the pointed one. This manufacturing method also makes it possible to form the part connected to the hook.  

The punch is a fragile part which can break easily. It is composed of a brass stem of approximately 4 mm, onto which is welded a tap (screwed and/or welded) in the shape of flower (on the majority of Arras), or more traditional in the olive shape. At its end is a bushing threaded and welded the stem is tapped with the step M 4-0.6 over a good length. This screw pitch can vary according to the model of the ring welded at the lower part of the tank.  For the replacement of a punch, the simplest method consists in using? another punch, recovered on an unusable lamp or in very bad condition which will provide spare parts. One heats the whole with the blow lamp and one withdraws it with a grip. This Pointeau+bague unit can then be easily resoldered on another lamp by taking care to heat gently not to dissolve the other weldings of the lamp which one wishes to restore.   

The latch-tightening screw is manufactured according to the same process as the hook but with a larger stem threaded in M8-1.25. It is also possible to recover a screw on another lamp, the steps being very often identical, even on models or different marks.

It is also possible to remake a clamp, starting from stems punts curved out of U, reinforced by parts riveted on the level of the screw pitch. The interest to manufacture such a part is tiny, in measurement or one can easily recover a clamp on a lamp out of use. But this process can be useful in particular to manufacture its own carbide lamp. It will be then necessary to have a drill press to bore with precision the hole which will be used as step of screwed plug.  

The ring of the nozzle has a conical threading which can be replaced by a traditional threading M8-10, but the ceramic part is practically impossible to remake with simple means. One can however repair nozzles cracked with a point of welding or certain resins resisting heat. The ?Synthofer? which offers a good thermal resistance can be useful for many minor repairs on a carbide lamp and in particular this case. It is theoretically possible to manufacture a metal nozzle, starting from a solid drill-rod and by carrying out a boring with a wick with 0.2 or 0.3mm. The risk to break these expensive wicks is important, and the result will be disappointing if one wishes to obtain a flame ?punt? which requires an industrial machining. If one can neither repair a nozzle, nor to replace it by nine, the best solution is then to manufacture? an adapter.

According to the difficulty in finding new or clean nozzles, it is possible to adapt nozzles still manufactured on other lamps to continue to make function an old lamp. The adapters for Becs Petzl used in speleology adapt on the screw pitches of protects nozzle. These parts sold formerly in the specialised shops (on the left on the image), starting from a limited series and are from now on untraceable. The manufacture of this type of adapter is possible but request for rather good knowledge in plumbing to adapt the screw pitches (on the right).

A last solution is quite simply to enchase in force a nozzle in a ring brass of origin by rolling up it with Teflon but this do-it-yourself of fortune is rather not very reliable and will just make it possible to repair a lamp in the absence of any other solution. The result obtained starting from the Petzl nozzles appears moreover rather not very satisfactory at the aesthetic level.

The solution which seems simplest is to use ?Indian nozzles? [JK Dey] assembled on a ring screwed on the door nozzle like a traditional nozzle. These nozzles being very fine they completely invisible will once be adapted on the lamp. The process is very simple: a tapped ring makes it possible to adapt the screw pitch of the door nozzle of the lamp of approximately 1mm moreover than the diameter of the ?Indian nozzle?. These diameters being excessively fine, tapping will have to be very surface. The tube being used as support could be found only in materials of recovery, this format not being conventional. As far as possible, it will be preferable to work on a ring stainless.   

It is an intervention sometimes necessary when the lamp is old and that this part oxidized at the point to be bored or to be become porous. Either it is noted visually that the hose connection is broken or completely perforated (at the time of an other restoration for example), or the lamp releases from gas by the tank. It is enough to approach a flame of the tank, if a flame leaves, it will be necessary to replace the hose connection or the plate of separation of the tank.

Initially, it is a question of unsoldering this part. One naturally withdraws the nozzle and nozzle protects as a preliminary it and one works on the higher half of the lamp. Using a blow lamp one heats slightly, the base of the door nozzle and the lower part and with a grip, one draws on the basis from the door nozzle. If one heats too much or too quickly, the other parts are likely to be unsoldered. Disassembling does not pose in theory any problem.

The tube of replacement will be out of brass (7x0.5-1, sometimes 8), one will very easily find these diameters in the majority of the stores of do-it-yourself (1 meter of tube costs approximately 6 Euros). It will be enough to cut a tube same length as the precedent and even exceeding a little more. One then unsolders the part of the door nozzle, which one files a little to withdraw the impurities and which one will very easily resolder with the tin welding and the blow lamp after having passed a little paste scouring onto the ends.

Same manner it will be enough to resolder the tube on its site of origin, after cleaning of the parts in contact until they shine, and passage of scouring paste. Here still, one will take care to gently heat parts not to unsolder the other parts of the lamp. The only difficulty is to obtain the temperature so that the welding is made each with dimensions one without unsoldering the other. A small brush soaked in water will cool the parts with the need. Once finished one carries out new the test of lighting of the tank.   

This extremely simple operation makes it possible to resolder the small plate often present on the carbide lamps, indicating the mark of the manufacturer (Arras for example), the origin or sometimes the affected number of lamp in a lamp-making. To carry out certain renovation works, in particular a repair of the tank, a sandpapering? It is also sometimes necessary to unsolder the plate to work more easily on the lamp. The welding is carried out with a blow lamp, a little tin, scouring paste and abrasive paper. The support must be perfectly clean and sandpapered very well very as much as the back of the plate it even. It is enough to pass the scouring paste, to pose the plate at the desired place and to heat. Starting from a certain temperature, one applies the welding to the edges of the plate. This one will be fluxed and entered of it even under brass. with a small grip one will be able to even make slip the plate to adjust it perfectly. As soon as one ceases heating, it is enough to maintain the part a few seconds time that the welding cools. For a quite clean welding, one can slightly brush the tin surplus on the edges with steel foam while the welding is still liquid.   

The very oxidized lamps can sometimes present holes of corrosion. In the presence of a lamp in very bad condition, it is necessary to start by sandpapering it completely to find the places weakened or bored and not to hesitate to insist on the fragile parts (almost bored) so that it (S) hole (S) appears (NT) clearly. If the tanks are bored of any share, better is worth to still preserve the spare parts in state rather than to bait itself unnecessarily. A hole or two can however perfectly be repaired. The largest part of work will consist in sandpapering the interior and the outside of the hole to make disappear any trace from rust. The welding which will be made thereafter will be able to hold only on healthy parts, one thus should not hesitate to increase the holes. On a copper or brass plate, one cuts out a part of size largely more important than surface to be covered (a hole of 6 or 7 mms diameter could be stopped by a plate of 4x3cm). To choose for a rectangular format which will be put in the length (horizontally) and which will take a curved form by slightly hammering it until it adjusts perfectly with the interior of the lamp. In the tank (or the tank according to the site of the hole), one will continue to file and sandpaper a broad surface where seat the plate will take. All surface in contact will have to be perfectly cleaned and sandpapered. It will then be enough to weld this plate as indicated exactly in the preceding paragraph. One will stop surface external of the lamp while making run tin melted to make this repair invisible. The difficulty will be to obtain a good temperature of tin, and especially of the support - without unsoldering the plate which one has just posed - the lamp must be heated enough so that the welding takes, but not too much not to dissolve that of the other with dimensions. Scouring paste naturally will be used. It does not matter the aesthetic result, the operation will be successful if the welding holds perfectly in the hole, even if it overflows or exceeds. With a simple file with metals, one will withdraw the surplus.    

It is one of the restorations which it is preferable to prevent if there are the choice, by not making the acquisition of a lamp. If the lamp is worth the sorrow of it, this delicate repair will initially require to have a brass plate which one will adjust exactly with the good diameter. It is advised to benefit from this repair to change the hose connection of the door nozzle consequently occasion, whatever its state never again does not have to have to remake the operation thereafter.

On the basis of a square plate, on which is drawn the shape of the round plate to obtain, one trimmed angles with disqueuse to obtain a more or less suitable form, without never cutting out more than the desired limit. Obtaining the round disc will be done by sandpapering on a sander (or if not, with the file) by cooling the part which much will heat by regularly soaking it in water. One unsolders then the old plate, then one defers the site of the holes allowing to let pass the punch and the hose connection of exhaust of gases with a pencil. Finally it is a question of replacing the new plate in the place of the preceding one. If cutting is good the disc obtained will return almost forces some what will enable him to remain in place at the time of the welding. If not it will have to be maintained by lower part with metal stems inserted by the hole of the tank. The cleaning of the edges of the reserve in contact must be filed and cleaned until they shine.

One makes sure that the punch and the hose connection are well places from there and that the disc does not move of its position, then one resolders the plate, the edges of the hose connection and the punch by paying attention not to be heated too much not to unsolder with dimensions by resoldering another. Once places from there, one tests the sealing by filling up the tank and by posing the lamp (dries) on a white sheet. If the welding porous or is badly made water will end inevitably up oozing. If not, the tank is again tight.   

Tinning consists in covering a lamp with a new layer of tin. One can sometimes observe that a cleaned lamp can oxidize again if it lost the layer which protected it. This technique can also be useful to galvanize reflectors which often exposed with the flame does not shine any more and was blackened. The best solution is certainly electrolysis (if possible industrial) but with very little means one can arrive to a satisfactory result. The operation is simple, but long, and asks for an important quantity of tin. It will be enough to heat the part (lamp or reflectors) coated scouring paste and to dissolve tin above and spreading out it with steel foam over all its surface. The aspect of the part will be ?friable? and little engaging but a sandpapering will again reveal brilliant lamp and its smooth and round form.

This operation is definitely more complex if one wishes to galvanize a brass part. These two metals tin and brass are based perfectly only at the end of a chemical process. The only interest will be here to cover for example a cup with brass with tin to make of them reflectors more shining.  The use of this technique is strictly disadvised and is mentioned here only as an indication since it will be a question of using a sulphuric acid solution saturated with tin to obtain this tinning. The extremely sharp reaction can be done only in outside (important production of gas and smoke of acid).    

Water increase

The lamp spits of water and ?coughs?. Generally, the lamp is too charged out of carbide. The lack of space of air leads the steam to go up by the nozzle. (This one does not evaporate the vapor with heat which it releases.) The water wedged in the flue, prevents gases from freely passing: it is then necessary to reopen the lamp and to withdraw carbide or lime to release it and drain the nozzle by cleaning it and in blowing inside (not to aspire if possible to avoid inhaling gas).

Gas increase

The gas increase by the tank is dangerous. It is important never not to approach a flame of the stopper of the water tank. When the lamp is slightly stopped or in overpressure, the gas excess escapes where it can: by the joints if those are worn, or by the water tank. This tank is more or less closed by the stopper, the gas thus concentrates in the water tank of the lamp and can thus ignite by approaching a flame. This can also indicate that the bottom of the tank is porous, that the hose connection of exhaust of gas is bored or that it has an escape on this level.

The lamp "takes fire"

This can arrive but is not a catastrophe if one acts quickly in a sufficiently broken down place. It can become much more dangerous in confined place. It is quickly necessary to extinguish the flame into blowing violently on the part of the joint which takes fire, then extinguishing the lamp. Once in safety, it will have necessarily to be opened to find the origin of this escape (often a problem of joint or cup -Flare fitting-). The pressure in the tank is not important, and the lamp is not likely "to explode".    

The flame carbonizes

A black smoke escapes from the nozzle by leaving a particular soot odor. Either the nozzle is cracked or worn, or too soiled water causes this reaction. Sometimes a simple cleaning is enough, generally it is necessary to change the nozzle. It can be possible to resolder it if it is just split on the level of the brass ring (with a simple blow lamp). These soot inhalations are very harmful and infiltrate in the lower parts of the lungs. This same phenomenon can also occur by using a nozzle of a too important flow or when the water flow is too low.

The carbide lamp whistles ?

The flame is blue and whistles: this normal reaction releases the oxygen of the tank at the time when one has just reloaded it. Acetylene "pushes" the air by forming a small very sharp but not very luminous non luminous flame. Little by little, the air is released and form carburizes it a very lighting luminous flame. It can also happen that the lamps make various small noises due to the flow of water, the pressure... It is said whereas they "sing".

The lamp does not start

The flame is very small, whereas it has just been charged out of water and carbide: Either water does not run out (punch), or there exists an escape. After 2 or 3 minutes, the lamp goes up in pressure. If that is not done, the flame remains size of a pearl. The nozzle is stopped (in this case to clean it with a cure nozzle), the lamp is not correctly closed or has escapes (one can check it while passing a lighter on the contour of the joint). To also check that there is enough water in the tank.    

A not very important escape in front of being reabsorbed in the urgency. Symptom: one or more small flames leave the joint or at the edge of nozzle protects. It is necessary for all to extinguish the lamp. This escape will be clogged very temporarily with wax of candle run at the place of the escape in quantity abundant and smoothed with the finger. The gas which fate is not hot, and of a low pressure. The bandage will hold enough time to repair or to find another lighting.

Another type of escape can also be solved, always temporarily if level of the nozzle, the screw pitch has a tiny play which causes a light escape, this one can be repaired with a simple plastic bag. To extinguish the lamp and to withdraw the nozzle.  To stretch a band of the bag which will be rolled up by tightening it very extremely on the screw pitch then to screw up the nozzle. It will form a joint of fortune (as a band of Teflon used in plumbing) which will hold one moment.   

The Nozzle located at the top of the lamp forms an elbow directed upwards. It is a format frequently taken again on the lamps known as "military"

--LaFrançaise--.

This type of lamp distributed by many manufacturers in France make of it a model enough courrant. It has a multitude of alternatives. It is a simple lamp a height of approximately 20cm often provided with a hook and of two tanks of equivalent sizes.

This recognizable model with its handle out of horizontal wooden and its central nozzle. Used in the careers recycled in mushroom beds, this lamp is more rarely and often in bad condition of the wood degraded by moisture.

This lamp of very small size is often of American origin produced for the majority by the company "Justrite" and declined in many models. The body of the lamp is generally out of brass striated with several levels with a vertical nozzle.

These robust models of a size of 10 with 15cm were mainly produced by the company "Friemann & Wolf". They generally exist in a brass version, having a clamp with hook, reflectors elaborate and a hook without swivel.